Alessandro Michele: Yeah, yeah, a lot. A.M.: Marco didnt know me but I admit I had an audience of friends and colleagues who shared my passion and must have supported me. Logo bags came hand-painted with flowers or embroidered with big insects a theme dear to Michele, who continued to explore it over the seasons. Alessandro Michele: I always take a picture. When Ford arrived, the brand was in great financial difficulty and needed a creative director who could reinterpret its heritage for the world of the 1990s. WWD and Women's Wear Daily are part of Penske Media Corporation. I think that means-- kind of power of the brand. Gucci's Alessandro Michele Is Obsessed With the Present This was the same Gucci, but different. In his statement, Michele said, "There are times when paths part ways because . Hence, Montelli wasnt surprised by Guccis renewed focus on menswear as a stand-alone business and believes the menswear business will be one of the main strengths in the next tenure., I welcome a move back to a separate show for mens, agreed Petersson. It almost felt like they were expecting it. Frida Giannini's era continued on the same trajectory, but with a progressive indentation from Ford's sexiness. It was Alessandro Michele's smartest move yet. Photographed by Tierney Gearon, Vogue, May 2019. With Art Direction from Christopher Simmonds and photography courtesy of Joanna Piotrowska, Guccis emblematic qualities outlined by Michele are rife. As did his sex sells attitude, now seen in 2021 through the lens of fetish via Gucci's equestrian history. Michele leant into this with glitter galore, marabou feathers and a focus on the jewellery he loves so dearly. An epic showdown between two highly anticipated films being released on the same day highlights an exciting month for film and TV. With Henry Cavill dropped from the role, three options seem likely to take on the red cape. I love the way she looks, Michele said about Eilish, who was in a Gucci tunic and board shorts, as she shyly said hello and sat down. Michele didnt reveal his plans for the first show to Bizzarrihe didnt have time. But in the years that followed, the Gucci family had sold all its interests - and the brand lost its mojo and market share. For the brand's centenary, Gucci's artistic director turned to the house's legacy, offering an unusually literal take on the archives for a designer well past his debut. Associate producer, Lucy Hatcher. Frida Giannini was gone, and I was ready to leave the company. Sharyn Alfonsi: Cumulatore sounds better than pack rat. It was worn by both women (on whom you might expect the frivolity of a fur-lined mule) and men (on whom you might not) at Guccis fall 2015 show, in Milan. Because I think that relevant means that you are saying something. 'To escape the reactionary cages of purity, I pursue a poetics of the illegitimate.' They follow the luxury brand philosophy: you can charge as much as the buyer is willing to pay. We saw bags that were hand-sewn and hand-painted. and I start to play with these kind of things. Gucci sales tripled in five years. I had no title and knew nothing about the future. The nineties was when Gucci's ready-to-wear legacy began, the unabashed 'look at me' glamour of the era ran throughout Ford's tenure as creative director. With Tom Ford and Frida Giannini, under whose control Gucci had become synonymous with a jet-set aesthetic, mingling and minimalist, the labels were black and thin, almost invisible; under Alessandro Michele those same labels have quadrupled in size, the name of Gucci appears large and black, contrasting with the zigzagged and almost opalescent fabric on which it is sewn, surrounded by a severe dark border. WWD: Fashion is also about newness, but in the wake of the pandemic, many brands are underscoring the need to have more carryover designs and products that can withstand time. Finn McTaggart is joined by Tino Kamal, James Brackenbury, Zeinab Batchelor, Hannah Hall and Michael Hope to discuss the Gucci S/S 20 show. Creativity fascinates me, like a voice simply coming out. (LAUGH). Alessandro Michele: I love to be open to the things that-- make me feel like, "Oh, my gosh. As reported,Epilogue is the conclusive chapter in Micheles narrative, which began with his fall show presented last February in Milan, dedicated to the multitiered ritual of designing, making, staging and viewing a fashion show. A.M.: I am a professional and worked to deliver my craft and experience. Including skin softening sunscreen and soothing fruit-flavored lip masks. Gucci sales increased from $4.1 billion in 2015 to $10 billion in 2021, according to The . Alessandro Michele studied costume design and thought he might work in Hollywood before he landed at the luxury fashion house Fendi and later Gucci. Michele seems to be telling us that a brand can be haunted by its own past, but its not one he intends to be held down by - whether that be the legacy which came before or after him. We feel it both, you know? He had rings on every finger, and several chains around his neck. He keeps a mental inventory of everything in the studio. Michele, 47, has always had a maximalist, color-drenched sensibility. Yes. Alessandro Michele directed Gucci to get his message to younger customers with online films, relentless social media campaigns and shows that bring cerebral to a whole new level, like one where the models are carrying wax replicas of their head. Let people be free.. This proves how creative Marco is, the way he approaches projects. MILAN Its been the fashion talk of the last two months. WWD: You had been working at Gucci for a long time; how did your team feel about you taking the lead? Alessandro Michele: We put together the collection in record time, without any commitment. For 100 years, the brand with its double G logo has been synonymous with opulence, understated . Alessandro Michele's Final Gucci SS23 Campaign | Hypebeast Its been an incredible journey, I feel fulfilled, and, when I look back, I wonder at some of the things I did. To do the wrong things in the right way is complicated, he said. As the designer presents his Epilogue collection today, he reminisces about his very first show in January 2015, two days before he was appointed creative director of the brand, and about the impact it had on fashion. Did the responsibility or the pressure worry you? The horsebit runs throughout the Aria collection, on bags and harnesses, together with the chicest riding hats that needn't go cross country to feel viable. OUTSIDERS ARE IN Celebrities like (from left) Iggy Pop, Cate Blanchett, Chlo Sevigny, Lou Doillon, Dani Miller, Soko, Ana Kra, Devont Hynes, Curtis Harding, Zumi Rosow, Alessandro Borghi, Jared Leto, Kirsten Dunst, and Rihanna have been instrumental to Micheles success. At a time when menswear is experiencing momentum across-the-board, the gap was too tempting not to be filled. Lets do a movie that starts in the middle! Gucci at First Show After Alessandro Michele's Departure - WWD Alessandro Michele: --means that you put, you know, things in your-- yeah, it's-- I think that is the disease of collectors. Look at this. Nov. 23, 2022 In the largest creative shake-up of a fashion brand since the Covid-19 pandemic, Gucci announced on Wednesday that Alessandro Michele, its creative director, was leaving the. Michele swapped out Gucci's signature sophistication for something he calls "beautiful strangeness" and tripled sales in the process. Seminal Moment: When Alessandro Michele Reinvented Gucci Here are our picks. Perhaps even more radical than Micheles embrace of gender fluidity is his strong belief that age shouldnt be a factor when designing clothes. Photo: Getty Images. We worked hard, we restaged the show location, but I dont remember feeling tired. "More strange", we heard him say as he narrowed his 200 looks to the 115 that made it into the Hollywood show. Now, Gucci has revealed its SS23 campaign, spotlighting the Ready-to-Wear and runway-seen pieces for this season. That's a disease I think. Alessandro Michele leaves Gucci after seven years as creative director Vronique Nichanian's sensual Spring/Summer 2024 collection for Herms is a love letter to the Mediterranean. I do the same for Gucci. Click the icon of the ad-blocker extension installed on your browser. WWD: You had been working with Frida Giannini for years, yet it became apparent that you did not share her sense of style and fashion vision. It looks like an operating room. Leto promotes Gucci and wears it almost exclusively on the red carpet, and of course, when he's gardening with michele. But that is my idea of beautiful.. Womens is a much bigger business for most of the luxury players and sometimes when theres a coed show, the mens element disappears. When it turns gray, click the refresh icon that has appeared next to it or click the button below to continue. It's like spectacular. Tom Ford sold because he made people talk about the brand, his hedonism was a mirror of his time and when Giannini lowered the sexual aggression of the designs the change was very welcome but it was a storytelling that, in the final stages of the Giannini era, gradually got lost in discontinuous references to the archive: one collection was the 60s, another 1920s, another inspired by the Victorian era , another one at Art Deco. As the Aria show closed in an Eden-like garden and models floated up to the sky, it became clear that despite a collection fit for real world dressing, Michele's penchant for fantasy wasn't lost. I redid the stores, pored over every small detail. Micheles vision for his first Gucci mens runway collection was surprising, unexpected and refreshing, sharing an overwhelmingly romantic point of view that eclipsed the more overt sexiness for which the brand had been previously known, said Bruce Pask, mens fashion director of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. After all, Michele was previously head accessories designer and Gianninis deputy. A month earlier, Michele had been in Los Angeles for the Art+Film Gala at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Alessandro Michele: We are selling the dream of freedom. You may have to select a menu option or click a button. The actor will appear in Captain America: New World Order., For someone who is neither this nor that.. there were people-- on Instagram writing that-- everything was kind of horrible, you know? Sharyn Alfonsi: Who's your customer? Today, his looks start with sketches. Alessandro Michele: It's always like this that I walk in the same place for you know a million times. The menswear business in general has continued to see extraordinary growth in recent years, with designer ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories especially robust.
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